http://www.codeplex.com/CSGalleryPluginWLW/Release/ProjectReleases.aspx?ReleaseId=831

 If you are using WLW and Community Server, I highly suggest that you grab this plug-in and use it, as it will allow you to reference your CS photo galleries for posting!

If you are looking for an awesome blog-posting and management utility, look no further than Windows Live Writer (WLW).

 You can download the current release at http://get.live.com/betas/writer_betas.

As of this writing the code is at Beta 2 and it looks very nice, is polished, and works very well.  I highly recommend the software!

Cutting the sides and top of the cabinet really helped me to feel like I was making some good progress.  There's nothing like the feeling of seeing the side profile of the cabinet cut.

As I have mentioned before, I am using a variation of the LuSID plans.  I have posted my 'additions/improvements' to the LuSID cabinet plans in the file section of the site, so if you are interested in following my plans, please be sure to download both the LuSID plans and my 'additional' plans (done in Microsoft Visio).

My recommendation for the sides is to measure twice and cut once because you'll have to work hard to fix any imperfections to the profile and if you use a router to duplicate the first side onto a second sheet of MDF/Plywood, then whatever variation exits will be transferred over as well.

Overall, here's the process that I used:

1. Cut as many of the straight cuts first as possible - get the side seperated from the rest of the plywood with as little left over as you can
2. Once the side is free and clear, trim as much as possible with a jigsaw
3. on the curved section at the top of the monitor - I used the process listed in the Project Arcade book - essentially draw a 1x1 series of squares into a matrix.  Start at the base of the marquee and go over 6 inches and down 6 inches, drawing the matrix as you go. I then started at the corner of the bottom of the marquee and drew a line at a 45* angle towards the bottom of the cabinet side side and followed the cut as closely as possible.  Now, draw the same kind fo line but come up the face of the monitor/display part of the cabinet side and intersect the first line.  I then used a round platic top to a can of furniture polish and aligned it with the two intersecting lines and then carefully completed the curve.  The matrix was used for alignment and for judging the depth and steepness of the curve.  I tried to connect the curve to the lines at the intersection of the matrix squares.  I then cut the curve with the jigsaw.  The result is shown here:
4. After cleaning up the side as much as possible with the jigsaw and sander, I then used a router with a flush trim bit and flush--trimed every possible side
5. The next step was to duplicate the other side.  I used the flush-trim bit again and quickly cut a second side
6. the next step involves flush-trimming both sides together to even them out
7. Clamp both of the sides together in a 'sandwich' style using some panel clamps
8. I then stood the base on its long side and lined it up with the bottom of the sides.
9. Grab a pencil and trace an outline of the base's profile onto the side and then measure out equidistant points on the side within the traced outline to drill holes for wood screws.
10. Once you have marked the holes, drill through both sides at once and then unclamp each side.  You now have mounting holes for the sides to the base in exactly the same place on each side
11. Optional - I used a round-over bit on my router to round off the edges of each side. I wanted to do this to remove as many sharp edges as possible and to help remove any imperfections in each side - especially the rough edges made when cutting the curves.
12. Stand the base on it's long side on the floor
13. Since the width of the cabinet/base is 26" you'll want to use something that is also 26" high so you can support a side on the base and this object so you can use wood screws to mount the side.  I used a 5-gallon bucket turned upside down and then filled the slack with phone books of varying thicknesses.
14. Once the first side is mounted, carefully flip it over and lay it on the floor with the unattached side of the base facing up and repeat step 13 and support and mount the second side.  Once you are done, you can right the base and sides together and you'll have something like this:

Once the cabinet is standing on it's own, you'll notice that the sides are still pretty 'flimsy' and need to be treated with care.  At this point, grab some 2x2 strips of wood and mount them 1 1/2" in from the top of the sides and glue/secure them into place.  After this is done, you can mount the top and screw it into place. 

Here's a shot of the top mounted:

and the 2x2 mounting strips:

All the panels will mount this way.  I used 3/4" birch plywood and once they were laid in on the mounting strips (which were mounted 1.5" in from the edge) I was left with a 3/4" 'lip' around the cabinet sides.  I thought this would give the cabinet a more authentic look.

OK - here's the scoop on the first part of the cabinet construction.  I went ahead and cut all of my wood at once.  Again, I'm using a self-modified version of the plans in the Project Arcade book.  I'm going to try to get the plans digitized in the near future, but for now, I'll quote sizes as I go. 

Everything on the cabinet is made of 3/4" birch plywood except for some small blocks used for mounting the panels.  Again, I'll cover them as I get to them.

The base is constructed of five (5) pieces of wood:

1. A floor plate that forms the cabinet floor platform - this is 38" (l) x 26" (w)
2. two cross-sections of plywood (lower supports) that run along the length of the base - they are 32 1/2" (l) x 2 3/8" (w). 
3. two cross-sections of plywood (base plates) that run along the width of the base - they are 26" (l) x 2 3/8" (w).

I layed both the lower supports (2) and both the base plates (3) into an 'H' shape on the floor plate and traced out their shape.  Be sure to leave some space for the casters to attach.  I then drilled all of my pilot holes.  I just drilled my holes equidistant across the length of each piece:

Once you've got the pilot holes drilled, then you can judge where everything will go and it's then easy to see where the casters need to be mounted.  Drill 4 additional holes for each caster, counter-sink the top of the hole, and use appropriate bolts to mount the casters.  I used 3" inch casters, but 2 or 2.5" casters will work equally as well.  Even though the picture below doesn't show it, I later switched two of the casters along the short (26") edge to be lockable (but not swivel) so that I could better control cabinet movement.  It would've been just fine without doing that though, so don't sweat this issue.

This next picture shows the finished base with the casters attached.  As you can see, once it's assembled, it's pretty self explanatory.

Once the base is assembled, you should find it to be tough and sturdy.  Heck, I even used mine as a scooter for a couple nights and I rode it around the garage and had a heck of a good time with it.  It was also handy as heck to move around some really heavy stuff in the garage - I should probably build another one at some point just for the utility of it.

Anyways, here's some things to consider on this part of the build:

• Glue - Make sure to have some hot-glue sticks and a glue gun handy - I used the glue to hold the base plate and cross-sections to the floor plate.  Once the glue dried (it sets up quickly), I was able to easily sink the wood screws to secure everything
• Coutersinking - Use the counter-sink bit on the pilot holes and the caster-mounting holes so you can get all of the screws and bolt-heads flush... you're going to this much trouble to build a cabinet, so don't skimp on the small stuff.  Professionalism and attention to detail is key
• Is the base Level? - Make sure the base sits level once the casters are on.  Any warping in the floor-plate plywood will be evident now, so correct it while you can and while nothing is depending on the base for support.  You might be able to correct any unevenness by shimming the casters, but consider re-cutting the base if it's too bad - it doesn't take long and doesn't cost a lot to fix a mistake.
• Orientation - I flipped the side of the floor panel with the pencil tracing marks over so it faced the floor and was the side the casters were mounted on.  This is a little thing, I know, but it keeps what you see when you open up the front door of the cabinet looking nice and clean.

Stay tuned - we'll be cutting the sides and top next!

I think that I originally underestimated the complexity of such a project.  When I first cracked the cover on the Project Arcade book, I didn't really think that slapping some wood together and plocking an old computer inside a cabinet could be as complex and thought-provoking as it has proven to be. 

I've definitely got to give the people who have come before me some credit - I've seen some really awesome cabinets on BYOAC and have defintiely received an education in this wonderful hobby.

Building a cabinet is a lot like solving a jigsaw puzzle in which the pieces aren't even cut.. you can take it anywhere you want and be as unique and ingenious as you dare to be.. it's awesome.

Having already done quite a bit of construction on my cabinet at this point, there's some pointers that I've come to realize are important to consider before you start building your own (or hopefully the next one in my case " />).  Hopefully these will save you a little bit of time, frustration and gaps in construction on your project

• Get your cabinet plans on paper, with dimensions - don't just start cutting wood.  Everything that follows assumes you are building your own cabinet from scratch.  If you are restoring a bona-fide arcade cabinet, then you'll probably only need selected parts of what follows.
  
• Cut the sides of the cabinet in cardboard first and tweak the shape - it'll save you lots of frustration down the road.  If you want to look at lots of cabinet shapes and form-factors, check out the Killer List of Video Games (KLOV). 
  
  Alternatively, you can get dimensions for quite a few popular commercial cabinets from Jakobud if you are interesting in incorporating some 'classic curves' in your design.
  
• Research your construction material - there are lots of options for cabinet building - MDF, Plywood, laminate, or any combination of these and other materials.  If you're anything like me, then this might be your first construction project.  I had to get a good lesson on the pros/cons of each material - definitely refer to the Project Arcade book as the author does a great job of breaking down the options in an easy-to-understand format.
  
  For me, the proper choice was Birch plywood.  I wanted something that could be made to look like furniture (again - house rules).  I love the classic approach of painted MDF w/ T-Molding, but I wasn't prepared to deal with the constuction issues cutting MDF brings to the equation.
  
• Get as many parts together ahead of time - it'll save you unnecessary trips to Lowes / Home Depot when you're trying to get past a single step in the process and are 'stuck' needing a tool, or some material.  It's more expensive at one time this way, but you'll save in the long run... make a list! 
  
  NOTE - I do plan on a blog entry that details all of the hardware I used in my cabinet, so be looking for that info soon!
  
• Do you have woodworking tools?  If not, get ready.  You're going to need to invest in (at the very least):
  
  • some type of power saw - a jigsaw and circular saw are good starting saws - a sliding mitre saw/chop saw would also help quite a bit and help you make good straight cuts easily and quickly.
    
  • A router - you've GOT to have one of these to do this project right.  Making flush cuts, recessing areas for control mounting, cutting the groove for T-Molding, etc... they all require this tool and you're going to have a hard time building a solid cabinet without one.
    
    You don't need a super-fancy plunge w/ a 40-bit kit - just get a simple setup with a 1/2" and 1/4" collett and something with some good horsepower (2+ recommended).  You can pick up something along this line for $80-100 easily.
    
  • Forstner bits - you'll need a 1 1/8" bit for drilling button holes.  Consider a big one (2.5 or 3" - depnding upon your trackball) for cutting control panel overlay plexiglass or veneer for the trackball (if applicable).
    
  • Flush-trim and round-over bits - these are two of the most useful router bits (IMHO).  Make sure you have one of each that can cut the width of your material so you can shape the cabinet and the panels for a professional look.
    
  • T-squares, levels and rulers - gotta have 'em.
    
  • Sawhorses - you'll need at least 2 and 4 would be helpful.
    
  • A good power drill.  You'll be sinking a lot of screws and drilling a lot of pilot holes - get something that has good torque and can take a beating... if you've got an older 12v drill (like I started with) you'll quickly see that it's hardly any more powerful than today's cordless screwdrivers.
    
  • A counter-sink bit - allows for a lot of pieces to fit flush and gives the cabinet a very professional look.
    
  • eye and breathing protection.
    
• Plan your work area - you're going to be spending quite a good bit of time on the construction and assembly - be prepared to dedicate some space to the project for an extended amount of time.  Any project of this magnitude will likely have some 'unplanned' breaks and you need to be able to stop work, store your materials and resume work when needed
  
• determine a budget - this hobby can get expensive quick - there's lots to buy if you aren't fortunate enough to already have on hand  (materials, fastners, controls, monitor, computer, speakers, power management, coin mechanism, etc.
  
• Study up on artwork - there is something to be said for the artwork on the cabinet.  It literallyl makes or breaks the 'wow' factor of the cabinet.  Understand that I am, in NO way, proficient with graphics programs.  However, take a look at this vector tutorial by fellow BYOAC member Frostillicus.  It's excellent and is a great way to get started with the concepts and tools required to produce the artwork files you'll need for your marquee, side-art and control panel overlay (CPO).
  
• Decide on your video - you've got several options and you want to make sure you build the cabinet to accomodate a possible change in mind.  TV's are inexpensive and will work, but a computer monitor will undoubtedly give a better image and can hit the resolutions required by newer games and/or console games, etc..  Real/Hybrid arcade monitors are possibly the best of all worlds and deliver unquestionable authenticity, but are expensive and may not have the resolution capabilitiy of a computer monitor.  Again - the right choice is depndent upon budget and needs.  I recommend checking the monitor chapter in the Project Arcade book and study up on the monitor forum on the BYOAC. 
  

Hopefully this info will help you make some better planning and purchasing decisions!

Ever since my childhood, I've been fascinated with anything related to computers.  Since I didn't have a computer (in today's sense) until my mid-teens, I was left to being enthralled by video games during my youth.  I would wind up spending many days-worth of farm wages at the arcade trying to beat whatever the high score was on my favorites (Donkey Kong, Ms. Pac Man, Galaga, Centipede, Tempest.... the list goes on and on).

Well, anyone who knows me pretty well knows that I am truly a geek at heart.  With that, I tend to apply said nerdness to just about everything I do, and this project is no exception...

Once I built my first PC, I kind of put the video games on the back burner because I was so interested in programming.  Many years went by with me focusing on the 'computer' part of the equation and I never really got into the PC gaming scene.  I guess I preferred the 'simple' interface and appeal of the arcade games...I dunno.  It's just that every time I looked at the latest PC game of the minute, I just couldn't help to remember how much more fun (and immersive) the arcade classics seemed to be.  " />

Anyways - fast forward to today - I had discovered MAME some time ago and fell in love with it, but wasn't in a position to do much with it other than pine for being able to play the emulated classics in such a way that took me back to a happier day *and* did proper justice to the games so as to re-create the ambience they originally created.  Fortunately though, I am now able to devote some time and hobby dollars to the project and I have decided to build my own MAME cabinet using bona-fide arcade controls and an arcade monitor and the works.

I first got interested in this idea when I heard about the Project Arcade book. I grabbed a copy of it and read it from front-to-back (several times now, actually - it's great for reference).  From then on, it's been game on, so to speak!!

I've actually been working on the cabinet for about 10 months now.  I've not had the entire 10 months pass with contiguous work.  I've taken several months off during this time to do other things (family events, work, yardwork, etc.).  I usually work on the cabinet in spurts, but am definitely on track to finish it soon (I hope).

I've posted a lot of my build up pictures in the MAME cabinet photo gallery, but since I've just gotten this new site up and running, I'll be back-filliing the project status here in this blog and also posting project update status as well.

Ovearll, here are the highlights of the cabinet and the requirements for such:

• Lusid-based design with several modifications to dimension, shape and usability
  • Added space for barstool and the ability to sit at the cabinet easily
  • control panel angle customization
• Wood-finish - required to allow the cabinet to 'live' in the house and to match the rest of the decor of the entertainment room in which it will be located.
  The cabinet needs to look like a piece of fine furniture - house rules " />
• Able to scale up with newer MAME releases - i.e. - use good hardware.
• Easily maintainable and accessible, yet secure for young child usage.
• Ability to switch control panels easily and go from dedicated one-player to two-player mode with minimal fuss.
• Working arcade hardware (coin mech, marquee, etc.)

Please look around and by all means - ask quesitons and post comments - I'd love to hear from other cabinet builders and classic arcade lovers!

Regards,

Whitney